11 Days Taiwan Solo on Motorcycle
- Ceciliasophy
- Sep 3, 2019
- 10 min read
Updated: Jan 7, 2020
This is not my first Taiwan motorcycle adventure. In fact, it is the second.
In April 2019, together with 3 lady bikers Tiny Jen, Louise Tan and Hui Xian, we initiated a lady bikers Taiwan ride. The ride around was planned for 15 days. On day 1 of riding, I had an accident when parking my bike at the homestay and injured my right foot ligament. There was a sharp pain when it happened, immediately my foot was swollen and I can hardly move a single step.
I have no choice to withdraw from the rest of the ride and returned to Malaysia a week later when I managed to walk. The girls completed the ride successfully. Cheers for their accomplishment! 🥂🎉🍻
My recovery took more than 3 months, luckily I was able to pick up some routine riding and dancing slowly but with high care to avoid further injuries.
My Taiwan solo ride was quite an impromptu decision. I have always wanted to ride at Taiwan again, may be somewhere in 2020 or later. This came up to my consideration when I was planning my solo holiday destination in August 2019, a lady biker friend randomly proposed why not Taiwan? Actually it was not a bad idea! She enlighten me and all the preparation kick started after that moment.
Two weeks later, I'm on the flight to Taiwan, embarking an 11 days overseas solo ride adventure.
TWO WHEELS ADVENTURE
Day 1
桃園机场 Tao Yuan Airport - 長泓機車出租Chang Hong Yamaha Bike shop
Stay: Duke hotel⭐⭐
Arrived Tao Yuan Airport around 3pm, took the airport MRT to station A21 at Zhong Li and got a taxi to send me right infront of the bike shop doorstep.
The hotel was just few minutes ride away from the bike shop but a bit kelam kabut as I'm still adjusting to the traffic and opposite road direction vs Malaysia.
Spend the night at 中原夜市 Zhong Yuan night market, enjoying the crowd energy and variates of street food.
Day 2
復興橋 Fu Xin Bridge - 武嶺合歡山 Wulin He Huan Shan - 清境農場 Qing Jing Farm
Highlight Route: Route 7，7甲，14
Stay: 天祥茶行景觀民宿 Tian Hsiang Tea B&B⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
A total of 250km mountain ride that took me 7 hours. Hardly could see any vehicle or human being, its only the mountain, trees, wind, road, me and my bike. The road was narrow single lane but for both ways, there are mirrors on the corners for road users to check on vehicles that come from opposite direction, but some mirrors are quite blur due to weather and dust.
It got really foggy at one point about 10km ride, the visibility was really poor.
Day 3
清境 Qing Jing
Stay: 天祥茶行景觀民宿 Tian Hsiang Tea B&B⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
It's Bailu typhoon day! Could not ride anywhere as the wind and rain were too strong out there.
I was suppose to stay at Lishan last night and ride to Qing King today. Made a last minute change to push further miles to Qing Jing so I have some buffer if my plan was affected by typhoon. Really glad I made the decision after consulting many locals. Could not imagine how to ride in such a weather in the mountains.
The B&B hosts were very kind and friendly. Knowing I was alone and without food, they went extra miles to upgrade my room, extended it with same rate and cooked me some nice warm spaghetti with a special touch of fried egg for lunch. The place has beautiful view of the mountains, I wasn't bored staying in whole day as I took my time to experience typhoon first time in my life, in my room🤣
Day 4
日月潭 Sun Moon Lake - 奮起湖火车站 FenQiHu Station - 奮起湖大酒店便当 Fenqihu Hotel bento
Stay: 奮起湖天主堂 Fenqihu Catholic Church⭐⭐
My original plan was to ride through 阿里山 Alishan to 奮起湖 Fenqihu, many locals reminded me to avoid the route as there would have chances of landslide, falling rocks and trees, broken road due to yesterday typhoon. Took their advice on an alternative 149 route which was also a mountain pass and safely arrive my destination.
The locals were right as the road around Sun Moon Lake was like a disaster, covered by fallen trees, branches, leaves and rocks.
Could not imagine if I had to ride through this whole day, I'll be super stressed and worried.
Day 5
大內龍貓車站 Danei Totoro Station - 高雄市 Kao Shiung City - 台南國1仁德战备跑道 Tainan Rende highway- 船帆石 Kenting National Park
Stay: 墾丁140民宿 Kenting 140 B&B ⭐⭐⭐
Detour into Kao Shiung City to meet two local bikers who planned to ride with me today. 修哥 Show is the founder of Taiwan famous FB group on Taiwan bike touring, he brought me a bright yellow banner stated 'Taiwan bike touring in progress' and some stickers. 宥然大哥 You Ran is a retiree who has toured around Taiwan few times, he also brought me a DIY wood craft.
Both of them have shared lots of places which tourist least travelled, my next few days journey was quite interesting because of their tips.
Day 6
鵝鑾鼻燈塔 Eluanbi Lighthouse - 龍磐石 Longpan park - 風吹砂 fengchuisha - 旭海 Xuhai - 南田观景台 Nantian viewpoint - 多良车站 Duoliang railway station - 太麻里平交道 Taimali railway
Highlight route: 旭海 26 Xuhai 26
Stay: 路得行旅 Norden Ruder ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
The journey started to fill with endless blue sea view from here.
The Xuhai route 26 from Kenting is my top 1 most scenic coastal route in Taiwan. You gotta enjoy less traffic, nice winding road with sea on your right. Must not miss this!
Day 7
池上伯朗大道 Chishang Brown Boulevard - 池上天堂路 Chishang Paradise Road - 六十石山金针花 Sixty Stone Mountain Orange waterlily - 玉里天堂路 Yuli Paradise Road - 長光梯田 Diamond boulevard - 項鍊海岸工作室
Stay: 海公主民宿 Sea Princess B&B ⭐⭐⭐
Day 8
親不知子步道 Qinbuzhizi - 七星潭 Qixingtan - 太魯閣 Taroko National Park
Highlight route: 東西橫貫公路 Taroko Route 8
Stay: Meci Hotel ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Must do Taroko Route 8 national Park. The ride into Taroko Gorge was stunning and officially my best mountain route in Taiwan.
Day 9
清水斷崖 Qingshui cliff - 建华冰店 JianHua Ice cream shop - 粉鳥林 Fenniaolin - 三貂角燈塔 Sandiaojiao lighthouse - 十份瀑布 Shifen waterfall - 不厭亭 Buyanting - 九份老街 Jiufen old street
Highlight route: 蘇花公路 Suhua route 9
Stay: 九重町 Chiu Chun Dint ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Suhua route 9 is a famous coastal route at East of Taiwan. Its an important connection between the two Township of Su Ao and Hua Lien, hence its named after the initial of the two towns, Suhua. The sea is just next to the route, but it can be a stressful ride as its single lane for each direction, the traffic is quite congested, many big trucks and tour buses, not to mentioned there are multiple maintenance work going on along the way.
The ride was not as pleasant and relax as Xuhai route 26 but if its first time riding in Taiwan, this is also highly recommended.
Another highlight is the ride from Jiu Fen to 不厭亭. Could not get the exact English name in Google map so if you plan to visit there just copy and paste the Chinese characters. 不厭亭 is a hut right at the peak of the mountain, looking down from the hut, there lays the 'lonely road'. It did feels lonely when viewing it from the peak, especially coupled by the fog and the mountains.
Day 10
阴阳海 Ying Yang Sea - 野柳地質公園 Yeliu Park - 富贵角燈塔 Fu Gui Jiao lighthouse - 內湖太古哈雷 Harley Davidson Neihu - 長泓機車出租 Chang Hong Yamaha bike shop
Stay: Taipei city
Day 11
Back to home sweet home Malaysia😍🇲🇾
BIKE RENTAL
Its already my second scooter rental from this bike shop.
The first rental only last for few days as I injured my foot on day 1 and stuck in the mountain for days.
Junior Deng was able to provide immediate support during the emergency, he contacted many transporters around my area to bring me and the bike back to town. His main concern was not his bike but to get me immediate medical attention as this resources are lacked in the country side. It was quite challenging at that time as it happened during weekend and many transporters are not available. Eventually we managed to find one to deliver the bike back however I chose to stay back and rest a few more days as I notice my injury was under control. Junior Deng's quick action relieved me from the stress on bike logistic and allowed me to focus on recovery.
Choose to rent from them once again as they are extremely reliable, I rented it for 9 days. After riding for a day, Bailu typhoon hit Taiwan and I was forced to make adjustment to my riding plan. I was concerned about unable to return the bike as schedule and Junior Deng sent me a warm message reminding me safety is the top priority, do not ride on typhoon day for the sack to be on track, it is OK to extend the rental and I do not need to worry about paying more rental.
Such a kind hearted business man!
Times of emergency like this show the true colour of an individual, I was so touched!
Highly recommended bike rental shop! check out the link below~
ACCOMMODATION
Many solo travelers will choose backpacker hostel for cost savings purpose, I did not opt for this as I would like to have some space and comfort especially after a long day ride.
Most of my accommodation are researched via booking.com and agoda.com, applying the filters of review rate above 8, attached bathroom, parking space, distance from current and next day route and free cancellation. I also read a lot of reviews before deciding.
Once I shortlisted the options, I will compare the prices in both apps, if I am able to connect with the property directly, via their website or contact from google, I will also compare the direct rates vs the 2 famous booking apps.
Most of the time, booking.com and agoda.com offer better deal, not necessarily a cheaper rate, but also the conveniences of breakfast inclusive, free cancellation, book now pay at hotel. These are important considerations for riding as there are possibilities that we loss track and unable to arrive the property during the day.
I love the comprehensive filter function in booking.com however most of my deals are settled with agoda.com as they offer Agoda cash for some bookings. I was upgraded after accumulating many bookings and it opens up more deals. They also have frequent discount and bonus which I can claim it against my booking.
One important principle when I ride, not to rush for destination as this result unnecessary pressure as well as missing out wonderful experience along the way.
Generally, accommodation is booked one day ahead during bedtime. I even fell asleep surveying and woke up without a place to stay on next day! LOL! As my riding days increase, the accommodation is booked the day itself when Im pretty sure everything is on track.
Why is travel with two wheels so exciting?
Because the best scenery is along the journey and the most memorable moments are the people and the riding itself!
So, no rush to the accommodation for the sake of advance booking!
MOTORCYCLE REGULATIONS
Unlike Malaysia, Taiwan has some restrictions on motorcycle below 250cc (lets call it small bike), check out my interesting observations!
1. Small bikes are not allowed to use highway and toll way. For Google navigation, I checked the Route Options with 'Avoid motorways' and 'Avoid toll roads', this shall give me a 98% of accurate country roads which small bikes can freely use. As for the 2%, it may be new constructed roads which are not updated in Google maps. LOL!
2. Generally I avoid road icon of with a shape of flower ( the first icon below), it represent the highway which small bikes are prohibited. If riding on road icon of with a shape of shield, I am safe :) (98% of the time :p)
3. Avoid riding at lane which stated '禁行机车', that is for high speed road users and small bikes are not allowed. Always keep to the right lane, right is always right! :p
4. In city and town, small bikes are required to perform 'hook turn' when turning left at junction or cross road traffic light. Look out for the 'hook turn' sign as well as the 'Left turn box' across the road, if you see any of these, hook turn is a must.
Still not sure when to perform hook turn? Easy, just follow the locals!
Not sure how to do hook turn? check out the video below~
English version:
Chinese version:
USEFUL TIPS
For preparation, below are some of Facebook page which I follow and refer for planning. Practical information include places to visit, accommodation, routes, food, weather, road condition. These are important information to ensure a safe and pleasant ride in Taiwan. Mainly in mandarin.
Taiwan Close group specialize in Taiwan motorcycle touring, lots of sharing on places and routes. Also strong community support if you have any questions or challenge when riding in Taiwan.
2. 台灣颱風論壇｜天氣特急
Taiwan typhoon page with a group of weather experts. They provide real time update of critical weather condition, even have live broadcast during typhoon day.
3. 中橫路況交通資訊站
Reporting of Central national way. This route is across central Taiwan mountains area, hence information like landslide, falling rocks, falling tree, road maintenance and closure are critical for planning.
4. 蘇花公路即時路況
Updates on Suhua route.
YOLO INVESTMENT
How much Taiwan dollar did I invest for this solo adventure?
Bike 3800
Fuel 876
Food 1762
Accommodation 8690
Other 450
Transport 659
Total 16237
Applying an average rate of TWD 1 : RM 0.13, this is approximately RM 2111.
This exclude return flight ticket and TWD3000 bike deposit which the bike shop withhold for 3 months until it is clear for any traffic summons.
SUMMARY
Taiwan is a beautiful country to tour around. The most beautiful element in Taiwan is the people, they are friendly, kind, engaging, warm and supportive, I mean extremely.
Riding alone in Taiwan does feel very safe, just need to be extra alert of the other road users. If you can speak and read mandarin, it makes your trip a lot more easier. But rest assure, with the technology of Google translator, it is not difficult to communicate with the locals. Taiwanese are willing to go extra miles to help you when you are in need.
Personally, I can't remember how I completed this solo ride. It feels like a dream, a dream that come true.
After the accident in April, many felt pity for me as I was so close to achieve a milestone. However I always believe that everything happen for a reason, and now I finally realize it was to inspire this solo ride. I always wanted to return and ride again but the plan was never so soon and definitely not alone.
Overwhelm with gratitude, I would like to express my sincere appreciation to all the angels who pray for my journey, who support and give me courage, who never doubt in me, who lift me and back me up all the time.
Above all, glory to God!